A cracking time in Cuba
- Carys Reid-Davies
- Sep 30, 2019
- 11 min read
May 25 - June 2
The land of music and mojitos, of heat and Havana, of cigars and Cienfuegos; Cuba. I had actually been lucky enough to visit this gorgeous country shortly after my 3rd birthday, but, being so young I remembered little. What I had experienced there had left a yearning to return, though, and for my 21st birthday my parents came up trumps and organised a trip.
The main memory that had been ingrained in my mind from my first trip was the 'flying eggs'. You've probably got no idea what a 'flying egg' is (I'd be extremely impressed if you did seeing as it was three year old me's name for the Cuban tuk tuk's)! They are everywhere in Havana, but being circular and golden in colour, I decided they were 'flying eggs'. The rest of the country was pretty hazy so I was in for a real treat, but also one heck of a shock...
HAVANA
We'd managed to snap up a great deal on flights, but this did mean we had a stop in Switzerland (very worth it though, and nice to be able to stretch our legs during the journey as it was a long flight). With plenty of films to keep us all entertained, the journey flew by, and all of a sudden we were on the Havana runway. Outside, the humidity hit me like a tonne of bricks, despite it being 11PM at night. We jumped in a cab and whizzed towards central Havana. Even in the darkness I was so intrigued and immediately knew this was not like most countries. With Che Guevara graffitied all over the walls of buildings that stretched up to the sky, it was clear that for Cubans he was still a national hero. Being a communist country with such a rich history, I was excited to learn all about the impact this isolated island had had (during my A-Levels I had learned all about the Cuban missile crisis which had fascinated me).
By the time we arrived at our tucked away Airbnb in the old town, it was getting late. We were ready to call it a night but out on the streets music filled the air and dancing was in full flow. Children under ten partied as their parents drank mojitos and this didn’t die down until around 4AM. Being such a hot country, it’s fairly sleepy in the day but night-time is a different story as everyone emerges to socialise in the cooler temperatures. Now that is my kind of lifestyle!
One thing that did immediately strike me was how behind Cuba was in terms of development. There is a major water issue in the country meaning toilet roll can’t be put down the loo. Instead, a bin is provided in each lavatory for you to dispose of your ...mess (lovely right)! Furthermore, public WiFi doesn’t exist. The only way to connect to the outside world is by getting an internet card which some hotels and restaurants have. For about £2 you can have one hours WiFi but only whilst in that building. We only got these a couple times (to make sure there were no emergencies back home) and the remainder of the holiday was without any social media, BBC news, sports scores or emails. This was actually really refreshing, but then again we were only away a week. Imagine that being the way you lived your life; no google maps to show you where to go, no daily Instagram posts, no way to catch up on news and current affairs, and no amazon to deliver the latest gadget to your door. It really made me realise how important it is to appreciate the lifestyle we have and the luxuries of 3G, WiFi, television, fully functioning toilets, and water.
We woke up to a wonderful Cuban breakfast which was made for us in our Airbnb. Lashings of bread, honey, jam, pastries, biscuits, fruit, scrambled eggs, cheese, meat and vegetables were spread out for us on the table; there was enough for 300 let alone just the 3 of us. We hoovered up as much as we could (I wasn’t too sure about having meat and veg for breakfast) and then chatted away to our lovely chef, Haraldo. There was a bit of a language barrier but he was the nicest person and so wanted us to be happy with our food (which we were)! I could tell that this was going to be a very Cuban trait; friendliness.
It really was scorching outside, but being a heat lover, I was in my element. First on our agenda was to visit the hotel we had stayed in 18 years ago and it didn’t take us long to locate the Sevilla. We sat down for mojitos just as a band fired up and began playing melodies that made it impossible to sit still. Catching on to how delighted I was, one woman called me over and got me on maraca’s. Now, I have no musical talent at all and my timings and pace were completely off, but regardless I had a wonderful time. I was even taught a couple steps so away I went, shaking and moving (as best as I could) to the beat.
Reluctant to leave, we decided it was worth seeing what else Havana had on offer so we strolled around the Old Town and found a great spot for lunch called O’Reilly 304. It was to become our regular and for good reason. With delicious, authentic Cuban cuisine and the friendliest staff, we were welcomed in and made to feel at home. One of the real delicacies I fell in love with was plantain chips with hot salsa (they were on every table and never lasted more than a few minutes when I’d sat down).
It was time for a siesta but I couldn’t resist the scorching weather so found a park and read for an hour or so. It was lovely to absorb the Cuban atmosphere flowing through the streets and immerse myself amongst the locals. For the evening we had a Mafia tour organised in one of the infamous old style 1960s cars. We had two wonderful guides who took the three of us around all the famous spots that Mafia mobs had resided in. It was fascinating to learn how strong the grip of these mobsters had been, with them having had a massive presence and influence. By the time we were back, the heat had truly sapped the energy from every bone in our bodies. We slumped into bed and all fell into a deep slumber.
The next day brought equally scorching weather and an equally luscious breakfast by Haraldo. We walked to the four main squares in the Old Town; the Plaza de la Catedral was especially stunning. We couldn’t go to Havana without visiting the Revolution Museum so we soaked up as much history as we could whilst walking around and learning about Che Guevara’s revolution. It was a great insight into why Cubans adore him so much.
After a quick refuel at our favourite spot, O’Reilly 304, my mum and I scampered off for a salsa lesson. It was beyond wonderful, with the cheekiest chappies teaching us how to pop our hips and tap our feet to a Cuban rhythm. My dad caused great hilarity by poking his head through the window towards the end and startling us all (he’d initially said he’d go back for a sleep as he had two left feet)!
We cooled down with more mojitos on a rooftop bar, Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski. It was by far the most extravagant hotel in all of Havana so we had to try it out, but, it was full of rich westerners and the drinks were the worst we’d had! Watching the sunset was special but we all agreed it was better to stick to more authentic spots.
Off we trundled through downtown Havana for dinner at Guarda which had far better mojitos and gorgeous food. It was such a unique spot which looked like a derelict building. However, as you climbed up the stairs you eventually came to a buzzing restaurant. It was a fair walk from the Old Town so by the time we were home, we once again collapsed into a deep sleep.
The next day I woke in the early hours of the morning, but not wanting to miss an opportunity to see Havana before dawn, I decided to go out for a stroll. It was amazing to see the frantic city so still as people gradually woke up. As I wandered around, school children began making their way to classrooms that I could peer into as they had no windows. Cafes fired up the coffee machines, carts of fruit were pulled through the streets, and all of sudden the sun was up and Havana was awake. For now, however, I had to say goodbye.
TRINIDAD
My family quite literally never sits still. The idea of a week holiday in one location, let alone in a resort, would just about kill my parents off. So of course we were off to explore a different part of the island. We had a driver which was a saving grace as tourists are notorious for being pulled over, not to mention that without google maps or sat nav, the island is near impossible to navigate. Our wonderful driver had us in Cienfuegos by lunch so we could explore the stunning colonial buildings in this lovely bay on the south coast.
We were on our way to Trinidad, though, so it wasn’t long until we were back in the car and on our way further down the island. We arrived at another fabulous Airbnb; Hotel Casa de Lara run by the gorgeous Grace. That evening we found a fabulous spot, El Bolo Vista Gourmet, for dinner on the top of a restaurant. We watched the sun set as grey clouds covered the last of the day light. All of a sudden, the heavens opened so we quickly moved downstairs and played cards as the atmospheric storm cooled down the town. So far, I loved Trinidad and I couldn’t wait to see it properly in the daylight.
Once again we were treated to a banquet of food, with the addition of pancakes, which we gobbled up before heading to the beach. It was the most stunning crystal clear turquoise sea which glistened in the sunlight, or at least it glistened in the sunlight for about five minutes. As my mum and I strolled down the length of the beach, the heavens opened and plunged us into the most dramatic rainstorm. Of course this is a Caribbean island, though, so after ten minutes the sun was back out in full and the sand was a soft golden paradise. We swam and sun bathed before heading back and indulging in a massage. Invited into someone’s home, it was lovely how trusting everyone was. We were set up in their lounge and given the most luxurious massage which left us feeling seriously supple.
We looked round Trinidad which was such an interesting region. With half of the town situated on a hill, the beautiful square with yellow buildings and a tower stretching up to the sky was a lovely place to walk around. Mum and I actually went up the tower and the view was so worth the climb!
We found a great spot for dinner where multiple mojitos were consumed, followed by wine which had us stumbling out the door and giggling like kids. At night, Trinidad was even better. Shops were open, showcasing stunning art and homing chatty Cubans who were eager to help. Families sat round eating with their front doors open and children scurried down the streets with dogs by their sides. It was so lovely and you felt extremely safe, even when it was late.
The next day we decided to do a bit of a trip as although Trinidad was lovely, we felt we’d covered most of it now. We were taken up to the mountains where we firstly gazed at the view of Trinidad below; it was spectacular. On the way down a man was offering up a tarantula to those who could stomach it. I was one of them, having grown up in the countryside and never been phased by spiders. My dad, on the other hand, grimaced as it crawled over my shoulder and down my spine.
At this point, our guide met us and we began to make our way to a waterfall. On route we went into a cave which was so interesting as inside it was so cool. We were told how these caves acted like a natural room of air con, so it was nice to have a cool down. After balancing ourselves as we crossed a narrow log, we arrived at the waterfall and it was unreal. We plunged into the water and floated in the blueish emerald pool. We were deep in the mountains so you could hear a pin drop and I had to just take a minute to capture this moment in its entirety.
After we were suitably refreshed by the waterfall, we made our way back and stopped off at a little coffee house before returning home. The coffee house had EVERYTHING, from coffee beans laced with liquorice to your generic Americano. Just what we needed.
We’d absolutely loved Trinidad. There really is so much to be said for going a little off the beaten track and finding the less touristy spots. It had all the liveliness of Havana, but it was a quarter of the size and a lot more rural and authentic.
HAVANA
It seemed like we’d only just settled in Trinidad and all of a sudden we were back on the roads to Havana for our final couple days. We once again scheduled in a stop off, but this time in Santa Clara. We stared at the colossal Che monument, located in the Plaza Che Guevara which is testament to his popularity. We also stopped in at the Monumento a la Toma del Tren Blindado, where 18 of Che Guevara's men captured a train. It was a great exhibition with the original digger used to uproot the train tracks standing proudly by the entrance.
When we arrived back in Havana it was back to our favourite spot, O’Reilly 304 (we’d become real regulars now)! We found a small bar, La Bodeguita del Medico, where people spilled out onto the street with drinks. It said they sold the best Mojitos in Cuba and they were damn good! With a band playing music that had everyone on their feet, it felt like we’d chanced upon a street party! We made our way into town where a concert was going. A couple of lovely guys let us in front of them, so we revelled at the opportunity to engage in a Cuban gig.
We really were in party mode now so it was off to Floridita’s for a daiquiri (a bar made famous by Ernest Hemingway who frequently visited). The night was still young, though, so we booked into a special show which included dinner and lashings of wine! It was spectacular, with singing and dancing throughout the night which all of us hugely enjoyed. What a way to have spent our final night!
With limited time in the country, we wanted to make the most of our final day so off we went in an open top Chevy to Ernest Hemingway’s home. It was a fascinating house, with all sorts of animals pinned up on the walls and an impressive pool and tennis court. When we got back my mum and I went to the Art Museum in Havana which really impressed us as all sorts of interesting sculptors and paintings hung around the rooms. We finished just in time for the second half of the Champions League final (dad had sourced a bar next to our Airbnb which was showing it; Liverpool won). We now had only a few hours until our flights so we ordered a paella to share before getting in a taxi and onto a plane. We’d managed to fit so much in and I was so glad we’d come back to Cuba. It’s a real culture shock, but so worth visiting to experience such a different way of living.
Top Tips
- Go to the four squares in the Old Town
- Do a mafia tour in a traditional Chevy
- Visit the Revolution Museum
- Visit the Art Museum
- Visit Ernest Hemingway’s home
- Visit Floridita’s and try a daiquiri
- Stay in Trinidad for at least a couple days
- Go to the beach and book onto the waterfall tour (in Trinidad)
- Visit Monumento a la Toma del Tren Blindado & Che monument in Plaza Che Guevara
- Have dinner on a rooftop restaurant so you can watch the sun set
Best Place to Eat: O’Reilly 304
Best Place to Drink: La Bodeguita del Medico https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g147271-d942067-Reviews-La_Bodeguita_del_Medio-Havana_Ciudad_de_la_Habana_Province_Cuba.html
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