Pints in Prague

Carys Reid-Davies
Sep 9, 2019
8 min read

Updated: Aug 20, 2020

1 - 6 September

DAY 3

When faced with a 14 hour train journey (it should have been 12 but we were delayed), the word ‘fun’ doesn’t usually spring to mind. And yet, somehow we found ourselves agreeing that this was possibly our favourite day of the trip so far! It was an early 7:30AM start, but loaded up with our essential three C’s (coffee, croissants and cards) we found the six hour journey to Berlin flew by. We had an hour or so to kill so wandered around a little market right outside the station. We had a drink in a lovely outdoor spot as we still had a plenty time before boarding a train to Prague (I say ‘we’ had a drink, but actually Ellis had two as he surprised me with a Limoncello, oblivious to the fact I despise most lemon flavoured things - hey ho, God loves a trier!)

I think I took on a bit too much map here

This is where it got interesting. As I mentioned before, you can get a reservation at extra cost for each journey but this mounts up so we didn’t reserve trains that were optional. However, this proved to be a very crowded train and with 4 hours, which ended up being 6 due to delays, we didn’t fancy standing the whole way. After being kicked out of multiple carriages, we were beginning to lose hope when we burst into a train restaurant. It seemed like it had to be first class, and us in our travellers gear, huge cases and red faces from lugging them around stood out a mile. However, a bartender took pity on us and said that if we bought a drink we could stay. PRAISE THE LORD!

So we cracked open a beer and wine and drank for the entirety of the journey. As you can imagine, we were pretty well watered by the time we pulled into Prague station, but it was a real treat arriving late as the city was buzzing with life as lights cut through the darkness, guiding us down twisty cobbled streets. We made our way through the Old Town where we were staying for the next 5 nights, and having been further out in Amsterdam this was the was the perfect location. Being only 5 minutes from Charles Bridge with multiple local pubs and cafe’s right on our doorstep, we couldn’t be happier. So far, all was going smoothly.

Artisan Cafe Bistro; one of our top breakfast spots

DAY 4

Neither of us had ever been to Prague so we were eager to explore. We found a delicious (but expensive) breakfast which immediately taught us that the rumours of Prague being cheap, whilst true, only applied to specific areas. If you’re willing to look a little further and veer away from main streets and tourist attractions then you can find some great deals. We didn’t mind though, as we just wanted something quick and easy and it definitely hit the spot.

Next up was finding our bearings, so we walked up St. Wenceslas Square right up to the National Museum which is a breathtaking building. We noticed that Lime scooters littered the streets and we just couldn’t resist so we each hopped on one each and navigated our way to the Old Town Square. I’d used these before in Paris so knew how to work them but they’re effectively just electric scooters which you just have to download an app to operate. It was great fun whizzing past people and it meant we got round a lot quicker.

In the Old Town we admired the gorgeous astronomical clock before noticing a Dali exhibition was on. With us both being fans we decided it would be rude not to go. For £6 it was a bargain as we feasted our eyes on paintings and sculptures, as well as reading some fascinating information (did you know Dali refused to eat ANY red food?) It was a great way to ease ourselves in and for what was left of the day we went over Charles Bridge, which really is stunning with it’s statues and buskers constantly filling the air with music, and into Malá Strana. This turned out to be my favourite area in Prague. Immediately over Charles Bridge is a serious saturation of tourists but by walking just five minutes you find quaint streets and pubs that would pour you pints until your hearts content. We were tempted by a chimney cone, effectively a long circular pastry doused in sugar and filled with ice cream or chocolate. These things were literally everywhere and once you’ve allowed yourself to inhale the sugary sweetness that wafts the streets, you’d be mad not to try one.

Somehow the day had run away from us so it was back over the bridge for a large G&T before dinner. We asked our host for local tips and she directed us to a veggie restaurant just round the corner called Maitrea. To say my boyfriend was hesitant would be an understatement; the idea of no meat to him is like a punishment worse than starvation, but I somehow managed to drag him along. The whole ethos of the restaurant is to ‘clear your head’ and relax, and the food was unbelievable. Even Ellis was impressed with his burger which had veggie bacon dripping in melted cheese and a generous portion of tartar sauce on the side. It was a triumph and whether you’re vegetarian or not, I’d highly recommend checking it out. Across the road was a little pub called Atmosphere so we had a couple in there whilst playing table football and cards before falling into a deep sleep.

DAY 5

We woke up to blazing sunshine and typical European heat that wraps itself around you when you step outside. Down the road was Mezi Cazy Cafe and it proved perfect for us. Whilst the breakfast menu wasn’t extensive, they had delicious coffee, friendly staff and crispy pastries that didn’t put us back more than a few pounds each.

Simple Breakfast / Brunch Spot With Great Coffee!

Today we wanted to see the culture Prague had to offer, so we started by seeing Lennon Wall which is so worth doing, especially as it is right next to Charles Bridge. Less than a minute on is the most beautiful restaurant which has a water mill and flowers draped all around. It’s like something out of a fairy-tale so we booked in for breakfast the following day. After the wall, we began a steep ascent up to Prague Castle. Unfortunately, the queue’s for tickets were packed but we were reassured that in an hour they’d be empty (between midday and 1PM is definitely the busiest time!)

We went to the gardens just a couple minutes away and found a brilliant photography exhibition on the Cold War and Velvet Revolution. Having graduated with a degree in Film and Photography, as well as having studied history for A Level, I was in my element. We stopped for some lunch, by which time the queues had cleared and we got a ticket which gave us access to St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica and Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower. Each attraction boasted something spectacular, whether it was the sunlight glistening through stain glass windows of the Cathedral, or a story of how rebel’s were thrown out the castle window but somehow survived the fall. There was an option to have access to the story of Prague Castle and Rosenberg Palace but we were happy to forego these extras (you can also buy tickets individually for each site if there’s only one or two that interest you.)

Check out all the ticket options and prices HERE

After all that we were ready for a feast so we went to Giovanni’s, which a friend had recommended to us. It had fab pizza, pasta and cheesecake, and wasn’t too expensive either (we were getting the hang of how to do things cheaply in Prague now!)

DAYS 6 & 7

It was another scorcher and we couldn’t have been happier returning to the magical Velkoprevorsky Mlyn (the fairy-tale cafe we’d found yesterday). After pancakes oozing with Nutella and coffees that filled our bodies with energy, we set off for the river. With weather like this we had to get on a pedalo which proved great fun. With a speaker which filled the air with music, we floated down the shimmering river. We even spotted a creature which I was convinced was an otter, but Ellis was adamant it had to be a beaver (which was more likely than the water possum he initially vouched it had to be!)

Velkoprevorsky Myln; an absolute oasis

Following this lovely relax, and a rather long debate over whether water possums exist, we stopped by a market, made up a picnic and headed to Petrin Hill. I’d definitely recommend getting the funicular, especially if you go in summer, as it’s a steep and most likely a very sweaty trek to the top. We tucked into strawberries, hummus, olives and bread to give us the strength to climb to the top of the tower, which is a real must if you’ve come all the way up. You get a panoramic view of Prague and one hell of a work out climbing up what seemed like a never ending staircase! Next door was a house of mirrors which we popped into, and whilst a little disorientating, it was a great laugh.

We walked back and after a cold shower, we hiked back over to Malá Strana to a traditional family run restaurant called U Magistra Kelly; it was beyond brilliant. There was live music, locals drinking pints on the street, and an atmosphere that was second to none. Oh, and the pints were only £1.10; the cheapest we managed to find! After lining our stomachs we found what was to become our favourite pub of the trip so far; U Maleho Glena. It had a Jazz bar downstairs which played music every night and we liked it so much we came back for dinner the following evening (the food was as good as the atmosphere!)

Next we found a pub next to Charles Bridge which had customers spilling out onto the streets, so we thought we’d do the same in true Czech style. With a third drink in our hands, and the cobbled streets seating us, we knocked them back and went to the other side of the river. Now it was time for Mojitos as we are both suckers for a good cocktail, especially when they are so cheap! The night was still young, though, so it was into town where we settled in an underground club; Popo Petl Club. There were so many people so we made friends quickly, and before we knew it we were being bought shots and downing them with out new pals. We also decided to try a shot of Absinth which was the most vile drink I’ve ever tasted. It’s 70% alcohol, looks like green sewage and tastes even worse. Stay well clear of that stuff!

We got back at some early hour of the morning and the next day was a bit of a write off; we did try to go to the KGB museum but it was closed so instead we wondered Malá Strana and Charles Bridge for the last time as the sun set on Prague.