The Secrets of Santorini

With snowy white structures coating the mountains, the cliffs of Santorini look as though they’ve had a sprinkling of icing sugar over them. That famous dark blue colour which is always associated with Greece is scattered amongst the white and glisteninng pools of light ripple as a cool breeze relieves us of the intense heat. Either side of the quaint path waiters display flamboyant spreads of food. Brightly coloured dips are scooped onto warm, fluffy pitas which have a drizzle of olive oil running down the surface. As we come to the edge of Oia, an orange fire ball sinks into the sea, taking with it all the light, so that the island is plunged into darkness...

Having spent the past few months in lockdown, I had made peace with the fact that my trip to Greece would be cancelled. However, as our leaving date drew closer things started looking hopeful and all of a sudden I found myself on a flight to Santorini. When we arrived at our gorgeous accommodation for the week, Eolia Luxury Villa, I found it hard to comprehend doing anything other than relaxing by the tranquil pool which overlooked the sea below. Of course, my curiosity got the better of me and I therefore spent my time soaking up the sun in our villa and then exploring various parts of the island.

Pyrgos

Had this gorgeous little Greek town not been so close to our villa, I doubt we’d have ever had the delight of visiting it. Yet when we went we all found it lovely, with traditional restaurants scattered along the road and hidden further back in the side streets that led up to a church. I also stumbled across a cat alley where stray and rescue cats gathered to be fed (being an animal lover I was in my element here). With delicious mezze boards, friendly locals and a surprise around every corner, what more could you want?

We also went to the most stunning spot for dinner and wine tasting as the sun set in the sea. It was actually on a par with Oía, especially as it was so much quieter! I’d have to say that Santo Wines Winery was one of the top things we did.

Kamari

Kamari is bigger than Pyrgos but still small in comparison to most seaside towns. With bars and restaurants looking out to the sea, it is a beautiful setting to eat or even just stroll down. There are also some shops to wander in and a fish spa (if that the kind of thing that floats your boat). The hidden gem, not just of Kamari but the whole island, is undoubtedly the open air cinema. With a film showing each evening at 9:30pm, we settled into chairs having purchased cocktails at a very retro bar opposite the screen. Plants are strewn across the stage in front and once the lights go down and the film starts, only the stars provide light. It was a truly magical experience so I’m not surprised it is considered one of the best open air cinemas in the world. Whether you’re a film buff or not, I’d say this is an absolute must.

Thira / Fira

Fun Fact: A long time ago a volcano erupted and caused half of the island to sink which is why Santorini is C shape.

Another Fun Fact: Thira is actually the name of the island but many people, including the Greeks, have taken to calling it Santorini.

Those two facts are relevant as the capital is known as Fira and it is definitely worth a visit. There are many restaurants which look out to the volcano which is a spectacular view. There are also various shops so it’s a pleasant place to walk around. You can also get a cable car down to the port but we gave this a miss.

Oía

If you’ve ever seen a picture of Santorini it will have almost definitely been taken in Oía. You’re thrown into the most serene town with villas etched into the cliff side and whitish blue structures stretching up to the sky. This is the most expensive place on the island so if you’re in a budget make sure to have eaten beforehand. It is also the top attraction so when the sunset starts tourists flood to see it dip behind the sea. Even with Coronavirus it was fairly busy, especially compared to other places. We, however, were extremely lucky as we climbed around the ruins everyone was perched on and found an empty spot which was practically impossible to access. It was a very special night having the suns rays slowly glide down my body and finally disappear. I could see why so many people got married here (romantic or what)!

Boat Trip

On one of our days we decided to go on a Catalan and what a day it was. Leaving from the port in Oía, we boarded the impressive vessel and received glasses of wine and beer (always a good start).

As we sailed around the island we came to many swimming spots and saw beaches that weren’t accessible by car. The best part for me was lying on the comfy sun beds as we glided through the sea, though. With the sun beating down on us until we watched it sink from the sky at 8:30pm, I found the whole experience pure bliss.

As well as the unlimited alcohol, we also had a delicious dinner of mussels, prawns, BBQ chicken, dips, salad, rice and beans. Being a veggie I can’t vouch for the meat but everything I ate was sensational and the others all seemed pretty chuffed with their meals too.

Beaches

Many of the beaches in Santorini are black due to the volcanic ash. There is a huge mountain which separates Kamari, Fira and Oía from the rest of the island. It is possible to either get a water taxi from Kamari to the beaches on the other side or to drive around (you can’t get over it, you can‘t get under it, you have to go around it)! Here you have a black, red and white beach so plenty of options. We did try them out but I found Kamari just as nice, if not nicer and far more convenient. Perhaps if there were more people around it would have more of a buzz and if you do go JoJo’s Bar is renowned as being the best spot for a drink, but we were saving partying for Mykonos.

Top Tips

• Hire out a car! Pavements are a concept the Greeks don’t quite seem to have grasped yet so walking is pretty precarious. Plus Kamari, Fira and Oía are all between a 10 and 20 minute drive away so whilst the island is small you really do need a car to get around. Taxis are extortionate but you can also hire out a quad bike if you’d prefer (a car is only €30 per day, though, so it’s by far the cheapest option)!

• If, unlike us, you have the chance to go to a traditional fish Tavern I definitely would. There are many gorgeous ones at the port in Oía but being a veggie I gave it a miss.
  

• Another spot which is supposed to be great for the sunset is the lighthouse on the South of the island. Many Greeks said this was their favourite spot so I imagine it is a lot quieter than Oía.

• If you want to try out the local cuisine give gyros a go (meat in a wrap), moussaka and baklava (a sweet pastry).

• Ouzo is a traditional spirit used as an aperitif (personally, it wasn’t for me, but it seemed to go down a treat with everyone else).
  

• Due to Coronavirus we visited at a time when there were only 50,000 people on the island compared to the 2 million that usually flock here in the summer months. Therefore, some of my timings and top spots may be different in more normal times.