Winter Is Coming ...
- Carys Reid-Davies
- Oct 8, 2019
- 6 min read
I am not a winter weather girl at all. I've always found the biting wind, wretched rain and limited daylight truly miserable. When the autumnal amber leaves that paint the trees until November begin to turn brown and fall to the ground, I begin dreading the next few months. However, there is one thing that makes this season worthwhile; skiing.
I have been lucky enough to have skied most of my life. From age two I was taken to the slopes and secured into the plastic runners that would allow me to glide through the snow (that being said, having only been alive 24 months I think there was limited gliding from me; I spent most of the holiday at a standstill)! This did mean that I would always feel comfortable on skis, though, and by the time I was ten the fearless child in me would whizz down the slopes whilst breathing in fresh mountain air.

We went to France countless times and shredded up the slopes in Morzine, Megève, Méribel, Flaine, La Rochelle, Risoul, Courcheval, Les Arcs, Val d'Isère and Avoriaz. We ended up falling in love with Sainte Foy, however, and despite it being a fairly small resort, this became our go to. As we used to travel with anywhere between two and four other families, there was always a large group of us. This meant the gorgeous Chalet One was perfect as it could accommodate us all and was only a five minute drive to the resort.

Eventually, the children of each family began leaving home, but before deciding we would do our own ski trips, we had one last adventure to Zermatt in Switzerland. We spent the day twisting and turning through Pennine Alps as the train chugged away, pulling us closer to our destination. We arrived in Zermatt and instantly loved the gorgeous Swiss town which quietly lay below the iconic Matterhorn peak. With electric taxis zooming around the snowy roads, we were taken up to our ski in ski out accommodation; Silvana Hotel. Never before had we stayed in a hotel as there was something lovely about coming home to a cosy chalet where flames danced in the fireplace, warming you up after a frosty days skiing. This was not your average hotel though ...
With a spa in the basement, we could soak in the pool, relax in the hot tub, and refresh in the steam room and sauna each night (just what you need after 10 hours on the slopes)! Each morning we woke to croissants, bread, eggs, fruit, cheese, cereal, you name it! Similarly, the evenings were filled with hearty meals of melted raclette cheese that oozed in front of your eyes and dripped onto fluffy potatoes. Pure heaven.

The Biner family are the owners of Silvana, with Herman and his wife Ida being so friendly. One night, Herman was dressed up in mountaineering kit and revealed he was going out to climb a mountain. "Not the Matterhorn I hope", we joked, to which he replied "oh no not tonight, but I've done that many times before"! Just look at the Matterhorn and you'll understand what a feat that is!

We found out that the hotel had sledges you could use to go down the slope and into the town, so one evening we decided to come back early and try them out. With eleven of us whizzing down, we had an absolute ball! The town was so gorgeous that it was great to explore the shops and get a hot chocolate before taking the bubble back to our hotel. My mum actually enjoyed it so much that she managed to convince my dad to go down again with her at 11PM one night ... when the chair lifts were no longer running ... and it was -15 degrees outside. My dad was less than impressed but the next morning he admitted it had been a good laugh (I think the hours spent walking back weren't quite as enjoyable but hey, you only live once)!

As for the resort itself, it was spectacular. With an abundance of runs from green to black, there was something for everyone. We especially loved a slope at the top of the first bubble which had a huge ski jump where you landed on an inflatable mat. With an igloo cafe, Iglu-Dorf Zermatt, at the bottom, we often spent the afternoons here, taking it in turns to fly through the sky in between chips and hot chocolate. It was a fabulous spot, and you could actually have a tour round the igloo hotel where you could stay! Despite the heavy duty fur blankets and hot tub at the back, sleeping in ice didn't quite tempt us this time, but it was wonderful to walk around it. Oh, and there was also a ski train here that you could take to the top of the slope which was always good fun!
When it came to our favourite spot, though, there was one that stood out a mile; Chez Vrony. With blankets draped over the outdoor sofas, you could sit, wrapped up, and sip on mulled wine or hot chocolate whilst staring in awe at the Matterhorn. It was the most tranquil and blissful spot, surround by snowy peaks which gave the impression you were in heaven.
We loved it here so much, that the next year my family returned and joined my Aunt and Uncle. They had a tradition of going to Fluhalp for a Burns Supper which I have to say I was not prepared for at all. It was by far the most unexpected but truly fabulous party I'd ever been too. We skied over to the wooden restaurant which was buzzing with life. After settling down on a table my Aunt had reserved, we were brought lashings of red wine before steaming cullen skink was placed before us. Next up was a traditional Burns meal, but before we tucked in, a man dressed up in a kilt piped his way to centre stage and then addressed the Haggis. Despite having Scottish family, I had never before witnessed these traditions and having had a fair bit of wine, I was giddy with laughter.

After eating, the live band ramped it up and we all got up and danced away until hours later when we felt we ought to make our way back. It was a ropey ski home, but we made it and it was by far the most memorable day skiing I've ever had (even if the skiing was fairly minimal)! The next year my mum and I returned to Zermatt once again, we were just so in love with everything about it! We went to Fluhalp every day for lunch, and whilst it was a little calmer than the Burns Supper day, there was always live music.

On the same trip my mum and I went down into the town and went to the Matterhorn Museum. My expectations were fairly low but we were both pleasantly surprised with how interesting it was! There had been a major inquest into the first people that successfully reached the summit in 14 July 1865, as four of the seven climbers slipped and died. There was controversy over whether the survivors had cut the rope when seeing the others fall, as to save themselves, but insufficient evidence meant the case was closed. It was so worth doing and a lovely way to spend an evening before a much needed relax in the spa.
I'm not sure if I'll ever find somewhere as special as Zermatt in the winter. Having the luxury of being able to ski out of your door onto the slopes is priceless, and the diversity of the runs means you never tire of the resort. Whether you've skied all your life, or you're going for the first time, you're in for a serious treat with Zermatt.
Best Place to Stay: Hotel Silvana
Best Place to Eat: Fluhalp
Best Place for Hot Chocolate: Chez Vrony
Top Tips: - Do a ski jump
- Take the snow train up the mountain
- Have an afternoon of Apres Ski (but make sure you're close to home)!
- Sledge into the town
- Go to the Matterhorn Museum
- Experience a Burns Supper on the slopes (if you go in January)
- Explore the Igloo Cafe, Iglu-Dorf
- Try raclette cheese (it's a traditional Swiss delicacy and has to be tried)!

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